A strange Jericho. All our previous impressions were wrong. Instead of a closely packed ancient city we found a sprawling half unkempt town. We stopped by the side of a road and looked at a mound of earth – which was a Tel – showing archeological evidence of civilisations going back 12000 years! The geography of this spot must have been compelling with fresh water springs as well as the Jordan encouraging nomads in prehistoric times to stay and settle here. No-one so far has found evidence of the Biblical walls of Jericho, but the city certainly existed way before that time, said to be the oldest city in the world?

Our restaurant was welcome but seemed to be a random garden and air conditioned curtained room in which we were served mezze, chicken kebab and chips with water melon . Excellent food but odd surroundings. Back on the coach we drove to the Mount of Temptation. It is said to be the place where Jesus faced his temptations and the place is marked by a mountainside monastery built by Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine, 5th century AD. We went up the Mount by cable car but had no access to the monastery.

The rock had an intriguing “face” – an angry old man shouting out to the city of Jericho – just a trick of the weathered rock but somehow more meaningful than the view of the modern city.

Then in considerable heat over several miles we arrived at a viewpoint from which we finally saw Jerusalem. Unlike Jericho, this lived up to our preconceptions, with the wooded hillside of the Mount of Olives leading down to the Kidron Valley and up again to the ancient city walls protecting the Dome of the Rock with its golden dome visible from everywhere.

We really are in Jerusalem . Stephen read one of the Songs of Ascent – so loved in Parry’s setting. O pray for the peace of Jerusalem. How much needed that prayer.

Lord help me to sort out the confusion of today’s world in this holy place from its meaning for all the Abrahamic faiths and for us in our small way still seeking a path to your peace. Amen.