A sense of calm in the jutting cream rocks and the sun haze over Mt Nebo with its pink oleanders and birdsong .

A lizard emerging from a stone wall.

The land of milk and honey – milk from the goat and honey from the date.

Our guide is descended from nomads – they used to be 85% of the Jordanian population and are now 1.2%. His grandfather lived in the traditional goat hair shelter with goats and donkeys. The grandson was born in the city and longs occasionally for the peace of the desert. He retreats when he can to camp in Wadi Rum.